Men's fashion week has been somewhat overshadowed by the rise of mixed-wear shows for men and women, but this season Milan Men's Fashion Week still brought together some of the best design talent.
On Friday, Milan men's fashion week begins again, and the very concept of men's fashion is undoubtedly facing a big challenge. Due to the integration of men's and women's clothing releases last year, the last season's two "closing" important brands Gucci and Bottega Veneta were absent; In November, Moncler stopped publishing the Gamme Bleu collection, which was designed by Thom Browne; Philipp Plein, a controversial but thriving man, also left men's fashion week.
Still, the lineup at Milan Men's Fashion Week was attractive, thanks to the continued participation of some of Italy's best-known traditional brands in the industry event. From local heavyweights to international upstarts, Milan today has developed a rich system of sartorial tradition and conceptual experimentation. There are up-and-comers, and there are brands you know.
Silvia Venturini Fendi, granddaughter of AdeleFendi, founder of Fendi, took charge of designing the menswear collection, which was founded in 1925, at the turn of the millennium. Her personalised work, which has defined luxury in Italian menswear for the past 20 years, is based on classic evergreen pieces, often embellished with rich details and brightly coloured furs.
Silvia's Spring/Summer 2018 collection continued the traditional silhouette and playful touch, taking inspiration from the sportswear of the 1980s and 1990s. This season, we can look forward to exciting new looks, such as herringbone blazers layered with crayon pastels, paired with brightly colored pants and techno-inspired sneakers.
Miuccia Prada's brand needs no introduction, and her women's collection is one of the most anticipated shows of the season, as is the menswear. She is also a staunch opponent of the unisex craze: "Replacing two shows with one is like a creative slaughter."
In addition to being responsible for the men's and women's fashion collections, she is also responsible for the brand's accessories collection and the design of the subsidiary brand Miu Miu.
Let's continue to look forward to a show with deep concepts, multiple textures, rich patterns - that is, typical of Prada.
Last year, Massimo Giorgetti officially parted ways with Florentine fashion house Pucci, where he had led the creative effort since 2015.
As Giorgetti said, he left to devote more time to his personal brand. His label MSGM, which he founded in 2009, has shed its initial image of hoodies and graphic T-shirts to become one of Florence's most acclaimed and commercially successful brands in recent years.
This season, we can look forward to MSGM's sports-inspired silhouettes, bright colors and exquisite prints, which combine retro and futuristic freshness.
(As for the headhunters' concern, will he work for another brand? His answer: "They can pay me well and give me all kinds of benefits." But I would still say no." )
Like many Japanese fashion designers who have found success overseas, such as Junya Watanabe or Sacai's Chitose Abe, Teppei Fujita took his first steps under the tutelage of legendary designers.
He has worked for Yohji Yamamoto and was a semi-finalist for the LVMH Young Design Award last year, with Sulvam making his debut on the official calendar of Milan Men's Fashion Week last season.
Shirt hem that was deliberately not tucked in, frayed jeans and saggy trousers... Fujita's designs have a calculated detachment. His second series will no doubt be interesting as well.
Although his name is not particularly popular in the Western world, Yoshio Kubo has long been a veteran of the Japanese menswear industry, especially streetwear.
Educated in the United States, he spent the first four years of his career training under New York-based designer Robert Danes before returning to Tokyo in 2004 to launch his own label.
Last year at Milan Men's Fashion Week, he created an entire masculine men's collection inspired by the most classic nostalgic American styles.
Inspired by "bareback riding," the collection features features such as square jackets and biker jackets adorned with beautiful stallions and denim prints.
Whatever the theme, he is set to present a cohesive menswear show this season.
